Tailoring instrument.



Patented July 18, 1911.

2 SHEETS-8131111171.

amen W045 G. OSBORNE. TAILORING INSTRUMENT.

ill.

APPLIOATIOH FILED IEB.17, 1911. 998,258.

MUM-IA FLNQURAPH CO, WASHINGTON D- C- Gerirude asZor-rze UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE.

GERTRUDE OSBORNE, OF NEOGA, ILLINOIS.

TAILORING INSTRUMENT.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GERTRUDE OSBORNE, a citizen of the United States,residing at Neoga, county of Cumberland, and State of Illinois, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailoring Instruments,of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to tailoring instruments and particularly to aninstrument adapted for use in drafting patterns for ladies waists,coats, etc.

The object of my invention is to provide a drafting instrument asmentioned having curved edges by means of which the various curvesnecessary in drafting the patterns may be readily drawn.

A further object of my invention is to provide a device as mentionedprovided with symbols along the curved edges indicative of the startingpoints for the curves to be used.

A further object of my invention is to provide a device of the classunder consideration whereby a single instrument is adapted for use indrafting patterns for garments of various sizes and dimensions.

My invention will be more readily understood by reference to theaccompanying drawing forming a part of this specification and in which-Figure 1 is a plan view of one face of the instrument, Fig. 2 is asimilar viewof the reverse side thereof and, Fig. 3 is a diagramillustrating a pattern as laid out by means of the instrument.

The instrument comprises a thin flat member 1 which may be made of anysuitable material such as wood, metal, celluloid, papier-mach, etc. Thedevice is of general wedge shape and is formed on one edge with astraight edge or portion 2 extending the greater length of theinstrument and terminating at the broader end in a curve 3 of increasingcurvature. The opposite edge is formed with a slightly convex portion 4:extending from the smaller end and increasing in curvature at about thecenter, as at 5, and then merging into a reversed curve 6 at the broaderend of the instrument, the end of the edge 6 terminating atsubstantially right angles to the end of the curve 3. The straight edge2 is divided into inches on both sides and upon one side the inches aredivided into fourths and eighths and on the other side into thirds andsiXths. The curved edge 3 is also graduated on one side Specification ofLetters Patent.

Application filed February 17, 1911.

Patented July 18, 1911. Serial No. 609,195.

as indicated in Fig. l and provided with symbols marked y z, A, B C, D,and E to indicate starting points for the curves to be used in layingout the pattern, and the opposite face is provided with correspondingsymbols indicated by the same letters accompanied by the letter X asindicated in Fig. 2, whereby the same curves may be used for laying outopposite sides of the pattern and for other uses as will appearhereinafter. The curved edge 1, 5, 6 is provided at certain points 6 177, (C 2 77, (C 3 7" (4 4: 7,, 5 77, and 6 together with the point Xwhere the curves 3 and 6 intersect, and the reverse side is providedwith corresponding symbols to which have been added the letter X,

said symbols also indicating starting points for the several curves tobe used.

Before laying off a pattern with the instrument it is necessary toobtain a number of measurements from the party for which the garment isintended, namely, neck meas ure, front measure, curve point measure,back measure, depth of arm scye, width of back, under arm measure armscye point, bust point measure, neck point measure, dart point measure,waist measure, front shoulder point measure, first back shoulder pointmeasure, and second back shoulder point measure. These measurements areobtained as follows: neck measure is taken around lower edge of collar;front measure is taken straight down front from lower edge of collar towaist line; curve point measure is the distance from the front of baseof collar to point of greatest curve on front line; back measure istaken from lower edge of collar to waist line in back; depth of'arm scyeis taken from neck at center back to line around bust under arms andcalled scye line; width back is taken from center back along scye lineto arm scye; under arm measure is taken from scye to waist linemeasuring directly downwardly under the arm; arm scye point is found bymeasuring from center back along scye line to point on arm scye, wherethe front should begin. to curve up toward the shoulder; bust pointmeasure is found by measuring from arm scye point to center front overfullest part of bust; neck point measure is found by measuring from armscye point across to point on neck one third of neck measure back fromcenter front of neck; dart point measure is found by measuring down fromneck point to most prominent point of bust; waist measure is taken closearound waist; front shoulder point measure is found by measuringstraight up from arm scye point to shoulder seam; first back shoulderpoint measure is found by measuring from width of back point straight upto shoulder seam; second back shoulder point measure is found bymeasuring from neck point straight down to scye line.

After the above measurements are ascertained the pattern is drafted inthe following manner; the measures assume to be neck 13, front 15, curvepoint 7-}, back 15 depth arm scye 7 width back 67}, under arm 8, armscye point 101 bust point 8%, neck point 9-}, dart point 10 waist 24,front shoulder point 7%, first back shoulder point 5. second backshoulder point 7 9 First draw a vertical line 11 and a horizontal line12 intersecting the same and mark the point of intersection A. From thepoint A on the vertical line measure downwardly the length of back andplace the point B and from B draw a horizontal line 13. On the verticalline 11 mark off from A the depth of arm scye and place the point O, andfrom the point C draw the horizontal line 1a. Place a point D on theline 11 at the center of the distance AO and draw a horizontal line 15.On the line 12 mark the point F at a distance from A equal to one-sixthof the neck measure. From F measure upwardly one half inch and place thepoint G and through A and G draw a line with the instrument placing thesymbol O at the point A. Place a point E on the line 13 one and onefourth inches from B and through A and E draw a straight line 16 whichconstitutes the center line of the back. \Vhere the lines 14 and 16intersect place a point H and on the line 1 1 mark off the distance H-Hequal to the width ofthe back. At the point H erect a perpendicular l7and on this mark the point I at a distance from H equal to first backshoulder point distance. Place the point J to' the left of I threeeighths of an inch and through the points J and G draw a curved linewith the instrument placing the point or symbol 4 at J. At theintersection of the lines 15 and 17 place a point K and one inch below Kplace a point M.

On the line 13 place a point L one and one fourth inches from E and drawthe line LM with the instrument placing the symbol 3X at the point L. Atone inch from the point L, and on the line 13, mark a point N and mark apoint L at the intersection of the line ML and the line 14. WVith theinstrument draw the line L -N using the symbol 5 as a starting point.

' Place a point O one fourth inch below N.

Mark a point P on the line 14: at a distance from H equal to the armscye point dis tance and to the right of the point P mark a point Q atthe distance of one inch from the point P. From Q drop a perpendicular1S and where this intersects the line 13 mark a point R, the distance QRbeing equal to the under arm measure. Draw a straight line-connecting Oand R. Mark the points S and T one half inch to the right and left of Rrespectively and connect the points T and S each with the; point Q bycurved lines drawn with the instrument using the points fl: and el-X asstarting points.

One inch above A mark the point g and with the distance y-P as a radiusdraw the are 19. Place a point Z on the are 1!) at a distance from Pequal to the neck point distance. 'At P erect a perpendicular 20 and onthis place a point aa at a distance from P equal to the front shoulderpoint distance. Through the points Z and (1a draw a curved line with theinstrument using the point or symbol 4X as a starting point and on thisline mark the point 1)?) at a distance from Z one half inch less thanthe back shoulder point. Connect the points P and N) with a curved linedrawn with the instrument using the symbol AX as a starting point. Atone half the distance between P and H place a point X and one half aninch below this point place a point X. Connect X and M. with a curvedline using the symbol Z as a starting point. From P mark on the distanceequal to the bust point distance and place a point dd. From theintersection of the lines 15 and 1G draw a line 21 through the point Zand on this line place a pointcc at a distance from Z equal to one sixthof the neck measure. Draw a line 22 through the points cc and (Zd. Placea point 11 half way between the points P and (M. On the line 22 measureoff the distance from cc equal to one fourth neck measure and place apoint 06. From 66 mark off a distance equal to the curve point distanceand place a point Draw the curved line cc Z using the symbol B as astarting point. From 60 measure off the distance equal to the frontmeasure and place a point g. At 9 erect a perpendicular 23 to the line22 and on this line five inches from the point gg place a point lck. Onthe line 23 measure ofi one inch and place a point 7th, from 7th measureoff one and one half inches and place a point ii, from ii measure offone and one half inches and place a point Connect the points hit and ffwith a curved line using, the symbol 4X as a startingpoint and draw theline f "ce using the symbol 4" as a starting point. With Z as a centerand a distance Z--Z equal to the dart point distance draw an are 2%. Onthe are 2-1- mark a point mm one and one half to the left of Z and apoint an three quarters of an inch to the right of Z Draw the curvedline z'z'm-m using the symbol 6 as a starting point, the line jj-mmusing the symbol 6X as a starting point and the line Ida-m1, using thepoint or symbol 6 as a starting point. From the point T measure to theleft one fourth the waist measure less the distance 7s7rjy' and z'i-hh,and place a point 00. Through the points 7m and 00 draw a curve usingthe symbol 6X as a starting point, and on this line mark a point pp at adistance from an equal to Adv-m2 less one fourth of an inch. .Draw acurve ppT using the symbol X as a starting point.

Placea point W on the line OS equal to one half of one fourth waistmeasure minus width of center back section, and place a point V at thesame distance from the point S. Place a point u half way between thepoints Q and L and connect this point with the points V and W using thesymbols 4 and 4X respectively as starting points. Place a point 1 siXinches below the point B, connect points E and l with a straight lineand draw the horizontal line 25. Drop a perpendicular from a point halfway between the points L and N and where this intersects the line 25placeapoint 2. Drop a perpendicular from a point half way between V andW and where this intersects the line 25 place a point 3. From S drop aperpendicular and mark the point where it intersects the line 25 as 4:.One half inch to the left of 4 mark a point 8, one and three fourthsinches to the right of 4 mark a point- 9, one half inch to the right of3 mark a point 7, one half inch to the right of 2 mark a point 5 andthree fourths of an inch to the right of 2 mark a point 6. Con nect thepoints 5 and L with a straight line. Draw the line 60 using the symbol 1as a starting point, the line 7V using the symbol 1 as a starting point,the line 3W using the symbol 1X as a starting point, the line 9T usingthe symbol 1 as a starting point, and the line 8-S using the symbol 1Xas a starting point. Draw the line ppii as erect perpendiculars p;0107c7c-11 and iz'13 and draw the lines hit-14E and jj-12 perpendicular tothe line 23.

\Vhile the instrument may be used to draft various patterns, the abovedescription of how it is used in drafting a ladys waist pattern willgive a full understanding of the nature and use of the device.

Having described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent is:

An instrument of the class mentioned formed of a sheet of flat material,tapering in width from end to end and having on one edge a straightportion terminating at the broader end in a curved portion of increasingcurvature, the opposite edge being slightly convex from the smaller endand gradually increasing in curvature at about the center and thenmerging gradually into a reverse curve at the broader end of theinstrument, the end of the reverse curve terminating at substantiallyright angles to the end of thefirst mentioned curve of the oppositeedge, the straight portion of the edge being graduated and the curvedportions of the edges being provided at certain intervals on each sidewith corresponding symbols, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

GERTRUDE OSBORNE.

Witnesses:

CLAUDE MoKINNY, FAYE Voms.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

